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The Hammam Ritual in Marrakech.


Hammams or public Turkish baths area meeting place for Moroccans, who come there regularly in order to enjoy massages and baths. There are hammams in all the neighbourhoods of Marrakech, both in the most humble district and in the most luxurious areas, such as Hivernage o the Palmeraie, where hammams are usually located within the hotels and resorts.


There is a ritual that, although it is quite simple, needs to be known before venturing to enter in one of these places devoted to personal hygiene, to relaxation... and also, why not say it, to pain. But before submerging into the details, it will be helpful to make a list of the indispensable products that we must buy and without which we will not be able to carry out the traditional process.

Some of these products can be bought in the hammam itself, but not all of them. What we could call the "survival kit for a hammam in Marrakech" includes:

* A special mitten for the peeling session. These can be purchased in the souks in the Medina, in the typical local grocer's shops (in which, at the end of the day, we pretty much find everything) or at the chemist's. They can also be bought from street vendors. These special mittens are apparently regular and harmless, inoffensive mittens, usually black, which constitute the basic element of pleasure/torture in the hammam. They usually cost between 60p and £1.5 (between $1 and $2.5).

* A pair of thongs or flip-flops. In order to avoid slips and the possible contagion of foot fungus. In any case, most hammams have excellent hygienic conditions.

* A plastic mat to be put on the floor to sit or lay down on. Some people prefer to bring a small plastic stool. Both things can be found in big supermarkets, at the chemist's or in shops specialised in plastic, which are quite common in Marrakech.

* Black soap. This kind of soap is a special dark paste that can be bought in many shops in the souks and that costs just between 40p and 50p per kilo (60¢ to 80¢). Sometimes, shopkeepers will give it out as a present to good clients. It is also found at the chemist's or at the hammam's ticket office, where you will have to pay a little bit more, around £1.5 ($2.5) for 200 gr.

* A plastic bucket to carry all the above products and to spill water over your head.

* Towel or bathrobe (in the hotel hammams these are usually not need).

* Our clean clothes.

Once we have the whole kit, we need to choose the hammam carefully. For those who are a little lazy, we recommend the hammams located in luxury hotels, where cleanliness and a rather high bill are guaranteed. For the more adventurous ones, you can visit a local hammam, a lot more authentic, without aromatic oils but much cheaper, and as relaxing as the other ones.

Hammams are divided into two areas, one for men and another for women. Entrance usually costs 1 dirham. Once in the changing room, you will find a counter where you must leave your bags and the rest of your belongings. You should give a tip to the person responsible for this cloakroom. In the changing room you can get undressed and ready to enter the actual hammam. Most men will keep their underwear on; on the other hand, women are much less prudish and female nudity is almost always full.

Once naked we get in the actual hammam. In the next article we will discuss the hammam's ritual process.

As we have mentioned, most hotels in Marrakech have their own hammam, usually quite luxurious and tempting. Almost all Marrakech riads also have their own hammam, cosy, elegantly decorated and fully-equipped. You can even stay in a villa in Marrakech, which, besides their own hammam, they also often have a swimming pool, fitness room and playing grounds.

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